MB Medic Mercedes-Benz Repair Guides, Service, How To DIY
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In this guide (4 sections)
How to replace front wheel bearing on Mercedes-Benz CLK W208 1998-2002
Step-by-step instructions
It is very important to keep the bearing and the area clean while installing the new wheel bearing and packing it with grease.
Application:
- 1998-2002 CLK320 W208
- 2003 CLK320 Convertible W208
- 1999-2003 CLK430 W208
- 2001-2002 CLK55 AMG W208
The wheel bearing’s main purpose is to support the car’s weight while parked or in motion while allowing the wheel to rotate freely. In theory, wheel bearings don’t usually need to be replaced for at least 200,000 miles, but very often, we see cars that need the wheel bearings replaced between 100,000 and 150,000 miles.
Parts Needed
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Front Wheel Bearing Part Number: 2103300051 |
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High-Temperature Wheel Bearing Grease |
Tools Required
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Breaker Bar |
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Bearing race and seal installation kit |
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WD-40 |
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Torque Wrench |
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Dial Indicator |
Instructions on how to replace a bad wheel bearing in the Mercedes-Benz CLK W208
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- Prepare:
Set the emergency brakes. Lift vehicle. Place the jack stand supports under the car. Loosen the lug nuts. - Remove the front wheel;
Remove the lug nuts and the front wheel. Undo the wheel nuts and remove the wheel. - Remove the brake caliper; Have something ready to hold the caliper before you free it. Letting it dangle on the brake hose puts the whole weight of the caliper on a flexible line never meant to carry it, and the damage happens inside the hose where an inspection will not show it. A bungee cord or a twist of wire onto the spring or the control arm, with slack left in the hose, is all it takes.
Two 17 mm bolts on the back need to be removed. Use the breaker bar to loosen and then remove these two bolts. Slide out the caliper with the brake pads still on the caliper. You may want to use a screwdriver to open the brake pads slightly. - Remove the dust cap: Pry off the dust cap using a flat-bladed screwdriver. The dust cap can be used by using a flathead screwdriver. You may need to tap it with a hammer if there is rust or if the cap has not been removed for an extended period of time. If the cap does not come off, spray some penetrant fluid such as WD-40, and let it sit for about 10 minutes.
- Remove the bolt:
Once the cap is removed, you will see the clamp nut. It has a hex bolt that requires a 5mm hex key. Once the bolt is loosened, the nut can be easily removed.
Remove the hub: Pull out the outer bearing, grab the hub with both hands, and remove it. You shouldn’t have to use much force; it will easily come out.
- Inspect the spindle and bearings:Once you remove the hub, inspect the old bearings and the spindle. Look for grooves or pitting.
- Remove the inside seal:
If you look at the back of the hub, you will see that there is a seal that needs to be removed in order to remove the inner bearing. You will need a seal puller to remove the old seal from the wheel hub. The seal is there quite tightly, so you will have to try several times. Keep on spraying, and the seal will eventually come out. The old seal will most likely bend as you remove it, but don’t worry, since you will throw it away. The new bearing kit should have a new bearing seal. - Remove the old wheel bearing and race from the hub: For this step, you will need to use a bearing replacement kit.
Buy Bearing race and seal installation kit on AmazonRemove the old wheel bearings from the hub. The bearings are easily removed, but you also need to remove the races that are pressed into the wheel hub. You have two races that you need to remove. One inside and one outside. You can remove the race using a drift. If you don’t have a drift to remove the race, you can use a round object such as a 31 mm socket to fit inside the bore. This is a slow process. Repeat the process for the other race as well. - Clean hub: Once you remove both bearings, including the race, it is time to clean the inner part of the hub.
- Install new bearings:Install the latest race in reverse order. Be careful not to install it backward. The larger diameter hole of the race should be on the outside. Use the drift to press in the race. Do not hit directly on the bearing if you don’t have a drift, use a large socket or the old race next to the new one and hit on the socket or old race. This will apply even more pressure on the race and avoid damaging it.
IT IS VERY IMPORTANT THAT THE RACE GOES IN STRAIGHT. Be careful as the new bearing can easily tilt when you first try to press it in. Do this step slowly paying careful attention to the race alignment. - Add grease
Use the high-temperature grease to coat the new bearing. Pack the hub with grease as well. Add grease to the needle bearing and make sure it is packed with grease. Make sure to pack the bearing with grease. It is better to have more than not enough grease. Add grease to the spindle as well. - Install new wheel bearing seal:
The next step is to install the wheel bearing seal. Very carefully tap the oil seal in until it is flush with the hub. Don’t hit the seal directly with a hammer but place another object on top of the seal that you can hit but that will apply even pressure on the seal. Install the wheel bearing Now you are ready to push the wheel hub into the spindle. Push it all the way back until it sits properly. - Install the nut and adjust it:
You can use a dial indicator to adjust the main nut. Use the 5mm Allen wrench to tighten the nut on the axle nut. Be careful not to over-tighten the nut. If you don’t have a dial indicator, you can tighten the nut by hand as much as you can, then tighten it with a wrench another ¼ turn. You want the hub to turn freely, but at the same time not have any play. The better way to do this is to use a dial indicator to measure the lateral play while you rotate the rotor. The typical run-out spec for this car is 0.01 to 0.02 mm. Tighten the nut bolt to approximately 10 lb-ft. Here is a video that you may find helpful.
- Prepare:
CLK W208 Change Front Wheel Bearing DIY VIDEO
Check the wheel speed sensor before the wheel goes back on
Nothing in the steps above touches the ABS wiring, which is exactly why it gets forgotten. The front wheel speed sensor reads off the hub you have just had apart, and its lead runs through the same space your hands and tools have been working in. Pinch it behind the hub carrier, pull it taut, or leave it out of its clip, and the car stops seeing that wheel.
The symptom is an ABS warning on the first drive, usually dragging ESP along with it, and it is maddening to chase because the bearing work itself was fine. Thirty seconds now avoids it. Confirm the lead sits in its original clips, that the connector is pushed fully home if you unplugged it, and that there is enough slack for the suspension to move and the steering to reach full lock without tugging on it.
If a light has already appeared, it will stay on after you correct the wiring, because the fault is logged rather than live. It needs reading out and clearing, and the read earns its keep by naming the wheel instead of leaving you to work it out. A UCAN PRO scanner does both. To be straight about the limits though, no scanner has anything useful to say about a worn bearing. That one you find by sound and by rocking the wheel.
Related Articles
- Wheel Bearing Replacement Video Source: Youtube.com
- Photo DIY Front Bearing Remove and Replace Source:benzworld.org
- Adjusting Wheel Bearing CLK W208 Source:Bentleypublishers.com
Before you buy parts, scan every control module, not just the engine. It shows the root fault behind the warning lights and tells you whether the problem is still active. See how to do a full health check.
