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To change the low beam light bulb on your Mercedes-Benz C-Class W204 model years 2008-2015, you will need a replacement light bulb. This guide will also help owners of Mercedes-Benz C300, C350, and C63. This only applies to models with halogen bulbs, not to those with HID D2S headlights.
You will need the following parts:
It is recommended that you replace both bulbs at the same time. That way, the light color from both lights will match, and you won’t have to replace the other bulbs a few months later.
Step 1: Open the hood
Step 2: Remove the plastic cap from the back of the headlight. Â Twist it counterclockwise to remove it. 
Step 3: Twist and remove the old light bulb.

Step 4: Disconnect the electrical connector from the old bulb. 

Step 5: Install the new light bulb. Avoid touching the glass part of the light bulb with your fingers.
Step 6: Ensure that the light bulb is secure. Reinstall the electrical connector and the cap.

First, make sure your car actually has halogen bulbs
The note at the top of this guide matters more than it looks, because the two systems are not interchangeable and one of them is dangerous to poke at.
- Look at the bulb you pull out. A halogen H7 has a visible filament inside a small glass envelope. A xenon bulb has no filament at all, just two electrodes with a gap between them, and it sits in a socket that clips to an igniter rather than to a simple two or three pin plug.
- Watch the light come on from outside. Halogen is instant and slightly yellow. Xenon flickers, starts bluish or faintly purple, and takes a few seconds to settle to full brightness.
- Look at the front bumper. Cars fitted with xenon headlights generally also carry headlight washer jets and automatic beam leveling, so washer jets below the lights are a strong hint that you are looking at xenon rather than halogen.
If you are not sure after those three checks, stop and find out before going further.
What if the warning stays on after the new bulb?
Changing a bulb needs no diagnostic equipment, and nothing in this guide calls for any. It is a cap, a twist and a connector.
The question worth answering is the one that comes after. You fit a working bulb, the light works, and the bulb out warning stays on the dashboard anyway. That is not a failed repair, and it is usually one of two things.
- The fault is stored and has not been cleared. The module logged the failure while the old bulb was dead and it does not always drop the message on its own once the circuit is healthy again.
- The bulb monitoring does not like the new bulb. These cars measure current draw to decide whether a bulb is alive. Fit an LED or a wattage the car is not expecting and the monitoring reads it as a failure even though the light is clearly working. This is the most common reason a brand new bulb reports as out.
A full system scan tells you which of the two you have, because the stored code names the circuit and whether the fault is current or historic. The YOUCANIC UCAN-II Pro reaches the body modules that hold bulb monitoring, which a basic OBD-II reader does not, so it can both read and clear them. Clear it, drive, and if the message comes straight back with the light still working, the answer is the bulb you chose rather than the bulb you removed.
Related reading
Before you buy parts, scan every control module, not just the engine. It shows the root fault behind the warning lights and tells you whether the problem is still active. See how to do a full health check.
You do not need to disconnect the connector. I simply used the flat head screwdriver to lift out the bulb and replace with a new one